The Hargeisa International Book Fair

The Hargeisa International Book Fair: Day One

The Hargeisa International Book Fair is far more than a book fair. It is now in its fifth year running and hosts authors, poets, musicians, film-makers, artists, playwrights, actors and circus performers, both Somali and non-Somali.

The book fair is being held in the Working Men's Club in central Hargeisa, capital of Somaliland which declared itself independent from the rest of Somalia in 1991. The territory has built itself up from the rubble of war, has a growing economy and a functioning democracy.

The earth was sprayed with water from this donkey cart to stop things  getting too dusty

The book fair is the brainchild of Jama Musse Jama, a Somali who fled to Italy during the civil war which broke out in the late 1980s, has lurched through various incarnations and is still not over today. Jama lives in the Italian town of Pisa where he has a publishing house, a vibrant website and a family. He is the author of several books. He was until recently a lecturer in Mathematics at Pisa University. Now he works as a computer scientist. Oh, and he invented a computer game based on a traditional Somali board game called Shax.

Jama Musse Jama welcomes us to the book fair

Ayan Mahamoud is the other force behind the book fair. She organises numerous Somali events in the UK and elsewhere, including London's Somali Week.

Ayan Mahamoud (in orange) and Zahra Ahmed, who help out at the fair

Quman Akli has been working day and night to make sure the book fair runs smoothly. Here she is carrying a lute for Hudaydi, also known as the King of the Somali lute: There are stalls selling books, paintings, photographs, handicrafts, clothes, cake and drinks. Mini-libraries have been set up so people can borrow books and read them in a specially designated seating area. This man bought my book Locally published books for sale Scarves and incense for sale. I bought both. A singer outside a Somali hut There were many bookworms at the fair The book fair opened with Somaliland's national anthem and other songs. Then the famous Somali poet, Hadrawi, who had been sitting quietly on his own at the back of the stage, spoke to the crowd. The large hall was completely packed. Many people had to wait outside, so a big screen was set up for them to watch and listen to the presentations.  There were lots of fascinating books for sale at the fair including Somali translations of George Orwell's Animal Farm (launched last year) and Chekhov's short stories, which was launched this year. Somali translation of Chekhov on top of Somali translation of Animal Farm

The British-Somali author, Nadifa Mohamed, flew to the book fair from her home in London to talk about her award-winning novel Black Mamba Boy and her new novel (and even the idea for her third).

Nadifa Mohamed

There are now proper yellow taxis in Hargeisa. Last time I came (earlier this year) there were only buses, informal taxis and private vehicles. I had my first taxi ride home from the book fair with Nadifa Mohamed and the Brazilian film-maker Iara Lee.

Nadifa in the driving seat

Nadifa Mohamed, me and Iara Lee

The Hargeisa International Book Fair: Day Two

 

Day Two started with the British-Somali writer Nadifa Mohamed talking about her novel Black Mamba Boy. She also spoke about her second novel which is now in its final stages. Its working title is 'Milk and Peace'. It focusses on the lives of two women and a little girl during Somalia and Somaliland's decline into civil war. 

Nadifa Mohamed

Nadifa also spoke about her third book which will be about the people who were born on the same night as she was in Hargeisa hospital in August 1981. 

The book fair seemed even more crowded on day two. Young people from Readers' Clubs from all over Somaliland came to make presentations, read and buy books, meet authors, watch films, listen to music and engage in the debates.

Meeting young members of Somaliland's Readers' Clubs

More bookworms

It was then the turn of the organiser of the book fair, Jama Musse Jama, to speak about recent books he has published, including 'Essays in Honour of Muuse Ismaaciil Galaal' which he compiled. Other titles were also launched including 'The Vulture has Landed', a collection of short stories by Ahmed Ismaacil Yusuf. There was a fascinating discussion of Somali Studies by Dr Laura Hammond of SOAS, Dr Michael Walls of UCL and Ridwan Osman a PhD candidate at Cambridge University.

Jama Musse Jama and his new book

Then it was time for a true musical treat, a meeting of the great musical minds of the King of the Somali Lute, Hudaydi, and the New Orleans jazz musician, Evan Christopher. This was Evan's first visit to Africa. 

The King of the Somali Lute, Hudaydi Evan Christopher

The music was truly amazing, transporting the huge crowd to a place they had never before been. Here are a few recordings I made of the music:

Hudaydi meets Evan Christopher One

Hudaydi meets Evan Christopher Two

Hudaydi meets Evan Christopher Three

I also recorded a conversation with the two musicians. You can listen to it here.

The Hargeisa International Book Fair: Day Three

This was the day for the environmentalists:

The Somali environmentalist Ahmed Elmi

Amina Milgo presented her book on the environment and showed a film about how charcoal making is wrecking the environment, as are the plastic bags and other rubbish.

Hadrawi, Ahmed Ismaacil Yusuf and Jama Musse Jama enjoy the discussions

Helen Conford of Penguin Books spoke to the crowd about how local authors can write for an international audience. Nadifa Mohamed and I were on the panel, and shared our experiences:

Nadifa Mohamed and Helen Conford

Dr Laura Hammond of SOAS presented a new book on diasporas called 'Politics from Afar'. She said many Somalilanders are 'part-time diaspora' people as they spend equal time in the diaspora and in Somaliland.

Then it was time for me to speak about my book Getting Somalia Wrong?. It was the first time I have spoken about it on Somali soil. I broke the news that the Somali translation of the book has just been completed. This has been made possible by some generous Somalis, who have contributed their time, money and other resources. After it is thoroughly checked by Somali intellectuals from different parts of the Somali territories, it will be made available online for free by my generous publishers Zed Books.

My book (among others) on sale at the fair. It sold out twice! More copies are being flown in from Nairobi, Kenya and will be available for sale in the Oriental Hotel, Hargeisa.

This young lady helped sell my book.

It was a wonderful experience especially because my former BBC colleague, the great Somali journalist and thinker, Maxamuud Sheekh Dalmar, did the translating. This is his first trip home to Somaliland in 36 years. He has been receiving a hero's welcome.

Maxamuud Sheekh Dalmar

My book has been for sale at the Maan-Soor Hotel

With VOA journalist, Ismail Hussein Farja

Another bookworm in a book fair baseball cap

Listening to the debates

Organiser of the book fair, Ayan Mahamoud

We were then treated to some singing and dancing by a young music group:

Dancing boys

Nadifa and I took a ride on the bus

Hargeisa bus (about 20 US cents a ride)

The mosque at the venue was often full to bursting at evening prayer time

Meeting old friends and making new ones

I bought this bag made from discarded plastic bags

There were always lots of comments and questions. This young lady asked why so many books in schools were about Tanzania, Kenya and other parts of Africa, not about the Somali regions. She received loud applause.

Day Three ended with a screening of Iara Lee's film, Cultures of Resistance complete with Somali subtitles. Iara appeared in a beautiful cloth she had bought in Hargeisa and wrapped around herself.

Ayan Mahamoud introduces Brazilian-Korean film-maker Iara Lee

Mosque outside the book fair venue.

Fresh local fruit on sale at the book fair

I bought some tea bags and hair conditioner at this very tidy and well-stocked supermarket

The Hargeisa skyline is dominated by telephone wires, even though most people have at least one mobile phone

The flight to Mogadishu

"The flight to Mogadishu is full. You will have to catch the next one, which leaves at nine o'clock." 


"Not possible," I told the man at the check in desk at the airport in Nairobi. "I have a ticket for this flight and I have arrived in plenty of time." 


It was shortly after five in the morning, and the plane was due to leave at seven. I eventually managed to convince the man to squeeze me on. My friend who also had a ticket and had arrived before me was not so lucky.


The plane was, as promised, completely full. Most of the passengers were Somali families, many of them from the diaspora. Some told me they were going on holiday, others to resettle permanently.


I sat next to a shopkeeper from Bristol and his teenaged nephew. "Two friends on my street  have been on holiday to Mogadishu. There was no way I could wait any longer. I fled the city in 1998. Today is my first time back. I have been trying to get a flight for the past three days. Every one of the four flights a day to Mogadishu from Nairobi has been fully booked. It's even worse with the Dubai - Mogadishu flights. " 

The holiday began in the waiting room. Children rushed about, a father held a sleeping baby in his arms, women chatted and giggled. There was an even more excitable atmosphere on the plane, which became fever-pitched as we started our descent. 


A large group of women at the back of the plane got our their make up. Large plastic palettes of brightly coloured eyeshadow, glossy lipstick applied to smiling mouths, eyebrows pencilled in with black kohl. It was like they were preparing for a party.


As we swept in over the coast, people on the left hand side of the plane got out their cameras. I passed mine to a slim young woman in a mustard coloured headscarf.

People remarked on the shiny new roofs on the buildings. From a height, Mogadishu looked little different from many other African cities, low-rise buildings spread out from each other, separated by vegetation. Near the beach, however, were what looked like car parks full of military vehicles and row upon row of white tents.


The plane glided down along the seashore. It must be one of the most beautiful landings on earth; the sparkling turquoise waves crash onto the sand a few metres away from the window. I felt I could reach out and touch the sea.


The young people on board babbled excitedly about how they couldn't wait to go to the beach. The mood of my neighbour, the man from Bristol, swung from talkative delight to quiet thoughtfulness. He was about to see relatives and his family home for the first time in 14 years. 


The airport was busier and more organised than the last time I visited in January 2011. As you can see from the photo below, the strong Turkish presence in Mogadishu was in evidence as soon as we taxied towards the terminal. Its flag was painted on concrete bollards - the blue Somali flag on others.

I said goodbye to my neighbours and gave them a copy of my book.

People stood up before the plane came to a standstill. They couldn't wait to get out, touch Somali soil and start their holidays.

Aden Adde international airport in July 2012

The airport has had a facelift since the old days but the basic structure remains.

The arrival hall was neat and fairly orderly. People had to fill in yellow immigration forms before completing the formalities, collecting their bags, greeting their relatives and going home.

Somalis in Dubai

Here is a report I did for the BBC about Somalis in Dubai. There are tens of thousands of Somalis in the United Arab Emirates. Many work as traders in the souks and at the port. It is said that Somalia exports more from Dubai than any other country apart from Iran. My guide was a Somali called Adan. As you can hear from my report, we started off in the souk:

My BBC radio report on the Somalis in Dubai

Photos of the souk:

The bright Somali women's outfits I mentioned in the report

Entrance to a mainly Somali gold souk

Here are some photos of the Somali port, which stretches along the creek running through Dubai:

Tiles bound for the port of Berbera in Somaliland

Tyres waiting to be loaded onto a dhow. The crew of the dhows are mainly Gujeratis from India. They told me they had no fear of pirates or of sailing into Mogadishu and other Somali ports.

The Somali clothes traders I met at the port. They said business was good.

A lot of paint was on its way to Somalia

Migrant workers on their way home across the creek

Africa Writes

The inaugural African literature festival, Africa Writes, was held on the weekend of 30 June-1 July 2012. It was organised by the Royal African Service for two main reasons. To celebrate new writing from Africa and to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the famous Heinemann African Writers Series that brought the works of so many African writers and leaders to the wider world. Authors like Chinua Achebe, Ngugi wa Thiongo and Buchi Emecheta. Leaders like Nelson Mandela, Kwame Nkrumah and Kenneth Kaunda.

You can read more about the festival here: Africa Writes

I was lucky enough to be invited to a dinner for the authors attending Africa Writes, some to launch new books, others to talk about their work. It was held in the British Museum, close to closing time.

After dinner in the Great Court we were given a magical treat. The museum had closed by then, and as night began to fall, we were taken by the curator Chris Spring on a private tour of the Africa Galleries. He held us spellbound, bringing objects to life with his knowledge and passion.

Pot by the Kenyan ceramicist Magdalene Odundo

Africa curator Chris Spring

Tree of Life made from weapons used in Mozambique's civil war

Director of the British Museum, Neil MacGregor

Sheila Ruiz of the Royal African Society

Chris Spring in full swing

The Somali author, Nuruddin Farah who was launching his new novel Crossbones

 After the tour we went back to the restaurant to have pudding and coffee, and to listen to the kora. By then, darkness had fallen completely and we had the museum to ourselves.

Africa Writes began the next day with a feast of talks, book launches, poetry readings and storytelling for children. 

Scupltures by the Nigerian artist Sokari Douglas Camp at the entrance to the festival

Books for sale including How Shall we Kill the Bishop? which was launched by the Kenyan writer Lily Mabura

Lily Mabura and me

Zed Books had a stall at the fair. It was (wo)manned by Anneberth Lux. My book on Somalia was on sale. It is third from the left on the bottom row in the photo below - the one with the blue cover with a white star. 

There was delicious African food for sale

The Nigerian author, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, gave the Africa Writes Lecture

In the evening Granta Books hosted a dinner for the Somali writer, Nuruddin Farah.

Deputy Editor of Granta magazine Ellah Allfrey and South African musician Hugh Masekela

Nuruddin Farah and the Somali author of Black Mamba Boy, Nadifa Mohamed

Nuruddin, Nadifa and me

Hugh Masekela, Scottish journalist Isabel Hilton and Nuruddin Farah